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mix, mix…stir, stir

Madeleines don’t appreciate toasted flour

Posted May 20th, 2008 by Carol Peterman

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For such a formal looking result, madeleines are really easy to make. It’s the mold that makes them so pretty, yet it is also the mold that poses the only potential hitch to success - unmolding them! I thought I was home free buying a non-stick madeleine mold, no such luck. A well-greased non-stick mold must be all it will take, think again. The only way to get madeleines out of my mold is with a nice coating of melted butter and then a dusting of flour. I was reminded of this when making them for this weeks Tuesdays with Dorie recipe that Tara of Smells Like Home selected as I stared at my pretty little madelines that appeared to be permanently bonded to the pan.

I followed the recipe and the suggestion to grease the pan. Without thinking much about it I used a spray cooking oil and filled the molds. As I was struggling to get the cute little cakes to let go of the mold, I remembered I usually butter and flour the mold. The second batch went in a  buttered and floured pan and this time they jumped right out of the mold with a light tap on the counter.

I mentioned a second batch, the first batch I did a bit of an experiment with toasted flour. I have read about the concept of toasting flour as a way to add flavor to food and I usually make a madeleines with brown butter, so I thought I would try browning the flour instead. I just toasted it to a nice light brown color on the stove top in a heavy skillet. The result wasn’t bad, but it just didn’t add what I had expected and the texture seemed a little dense. I thought the only way to really know the effect of the toasted flour is to make a control batch with un-toasted flour. Wow, what a difference – as in don’t bother toasting flour for madeleines. The Madeleines made with regular flour were so light and soft and delicious that I tossed out the other batch. I will experiment with toasted flour in other types of recipes,  but for madeleines I will stick with tradition.

Getting back to the recipe as written; it is simple, quick and produces beautiful little cakes. I am not sure I will even bother using brown butter in the future. The madeleines of my past use almond flour and I think I prefer the lighter texture of this recipe. I really didn’t want to stop eating them and luckily managed to get a picture before they were all gone.

This is yet another winner from Dorie Greenspan’s Baking: From my Home to Yours. If you don’t own this book yet, what are you waiting for?

All photos by David Peterman unless otherwise noted

Tags: madeleines, Tuesdays with Dorie

This entry was posted on Tuesday, May 20th, 2008 at 4:45 pm and is filed under Tuesdays with Dorie. You can follow any responses to this entry through the RSS 2.0 feed. You can leave a response, or trackback from your own site.

10 Responses to “Madeleines don’t appreciate toasted flour”

  1. Rebecca Says:
    May 20th, 2008 at 7:06 pm

    That first photo is ridiculously gorgeous. Beautiful job!

  2. mimi Says:
    May 20th, 2008 at 7:54 pm

    love your madeleines lined up in a row! glad the second batch came out nice!

  3. Caitlin Says:
    May 21st, 2008 at 4:13 am

    Toasted flour sounds interesting, too bad it didn’t work out in this recipe. Your second batch looks perfect though!

  4. Bumblebutton Says:
    May 21st, 2008 at 6:04 am

    Glad the second batch came out. I recently tried Chocolate and Zucchini’s toasted flour ‘squeeze cookies.’ I did not find that they lived up to expectations, nor to the accolades the process received. On the other hand, I think browned butter might be a nice variation. Very pretty!

  5. CB Says:
    May 21st, 2008 at 6:15 am

    Interesting about toasting the flour! I’ve never heard of that. Obviously I have alot to learn! :) Great job!
    Clara @ I♥food4thought

  6. Jaime Says:
    May 21st, 2008 at 7:58 pm

    great job! those are so beautiful, i can see their humps too!

  7. Jayne Says:
    May 22nd, 2008 at 3:16 am

    I’d never heard of toasting flour. Interesting. Your madeleines look beautiful!

  8. JacqueOH Says:
    May 22nd, 2008 at 1:59 pm

    Cute picture and thanks for the flour toasting tip. I hadn’t heard of that before.

  9. LyB Says:
    May 23rd, 2008 at 5:15 am

    They look beautiful! I think I might try them with almonds, it sounds delicious.

  10. sweetpastry1 Says:
    May 30th, 2008 at 2:48 am

    Toasting flour lessens its thickening power – the darker you cook a roux for thickening stews, the less powerful it is, so I’m sure it makes sense that toasting would affect cake, but I can’t say exactly how. Know what I mean?

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